Climate Change and Foodways

Timeline showing 13,000 years. Courtesy of Abenaki Arts & Education Center(Abenaki Arts & Education Center, 2023).

“The end of the glacial period in North America . . . brought with it momentous changes. . .  Many of the animals on which Paleoindians had depended for food, clothing, and shelter were no longer available to them.” —William Haviland and Marjorie Power.   From The Original Vermonters: Native Inhabitants, Past And Present. 1994.

You may be wondering what Abenaki people living in Vermont today have in common with their ancestors. The answer is “more than you might think.”

The timeline shown can serve as a reference tool for tracking the adaptations in Abenaki foodways.

Abenaki Paleoindian ancestors, approximately 11,000 years ago, lived in a tundra environment and relied on hunting large game animals (such as mastodons and caribou), sea mammals (such as whales), and anadromous fish (such as salmon and shad) for their survival. As the temperature rose during the Archaic period, approximately 8,000–9,000 years ago, glaciers retreated, and spruce and pine forests advanced into the region. Climate change also brought a wider variety of animals, shellfish, reptiles, and waterfowl to the region. Archeologists involved with Glacial Kame archeological sites (such as the Ewing Site in Shelburne) have found the remains of “bear, deer, turtle, fish, dog, [and] mussel” (Vermont Historic Preservation, n.d., p. 16).

The warming climate caused other changes in food resources. “By 7000 b.c., over 100 species of large mammals, such as the mammoth, mastodon, and moose-elk, became extinct. Others, like the caribou and musk ox, moved north with the tundra” (Haviland & Power, 1994). In place of these large animals, people turned to hunting other species, such as moose, beaver, lynx, and muskox, while also fishing for whitefish, and catfish.

Rising temperatures also gave rise to beech, birch, and maple trees, which are characteristic of the deciduous forests that Vermont and New Hampshire are known for. Three thousand years ago, the average temperature in Vermont was slightly warmer than today; this warming climate trend during the mid-Archaic period made for greater biodiversity. The variety of animals, nuts, fruits, and edible plants available to Archaic hunters and gatherers is remarkably similar to what we have today (Haviland & Power, 1994).

By the Woodland period, people shifted their lifeways, by living in relatively fixed settlements throughout the year. Smaller groups still came together to travel to smaller camps, where they hunted, fished, and gathered seasonal plant foods and medicines for their communities.

By roughly 1,000 years ago, a food plant imported from the Southwest – corn (Zea mays, also called maize) – was being cultivated in both Vermont and New Hampshire (Haviland & Power, 1994, p. 142). As just one example of the archaeological evidence, seven storage pits for corn were found at the Skitchewaug site (date to 1100 CE), demonstrating the importance of corn in the southern Connecticut River Valley diet (Mathewson, 2011, p. 29; Heckenberger et al, 1992; Haviland & Power, 1994, p. 86).

Corn made its way into the Champlain Valley around 1440–1700 CE (Bumstead, 1980; Haviland & Power, 1994). Beans, and squash also appeared in Vermont around the same time. During his regional travels in 1609, French colonial explorer Samuel de Champlain reported seeing “fertile fields of maize” (Heckenberger et al., 1992; Haviland & Power, 1994).

Abenaki people in Vermont continue to practice significant traditional hunting, fishing, and foraging lifeways in a culturally distinct way today; evidence of these practices (confirmed by independent scholars) can be found in the reviews of Tribal petitions for State-Recognition. Abenaki Tribes testified to ancient agricultural practices passed down in families, such as growing crops like corn, beans, and squash in mounds, and a shared cultural tradition of using “suckers” or “kikômkwa” (meaning “the garden fish”) as fertilizer. These skills are still part of the living memory and practices of families from the Elnu, Missisquoi, Koasek, and Nulhegan Abenaki Tribes, who vividly remember learning these traditions when they were children. (Elnu Abenaki Tribe, 2010; Koasek Traditional Band of the Koas Abenaki Nation, 2010; Nulhegan Band of the Coosuk-Abenaki Nation, 2010; Abenaki Nation of Missisquoi, 2011).

The addition of corn to the list of Abenaki food staples is immortalized in the story of “Corn Mother and First Man,” a story of love where the corn spirit sacrifices herself to feed the people. This story is still told after the “Green Corn Song” echoes through the mountains during the Elnu and Nulhegan Abenaki communities’ annual Green Corn events each August. The Corn Mother is commemorated, not just in song, but also in artwork by contemporary Abenaki artists. The importance of corn as a traditional food is reflected in the children’s book “Little Deer and the Sacred Corn,” by Chief Shirly Hook of the Koasek Abenaki Tribe (Calabro, 2023).

Green Corn Mother
Corn Mother, screen print on paper (A., 2025)
Shirly Hook reads from her new book, “Little Deer and the Sacred Corn”
Shirly Hook reads from her new book, “Little Deer and the Sacred Corn,” during a gathering at the Abenaki Heritage Garden she and her husband, Doug Bent, host on their Braintree property. (Calabro, 2023)

Traditional cultivation of food plants involves year-round seasonal cycles of planting, harvesting, and seed-saving techniques. Over time, some traditional heirloom plants were supplanted by newer commercial varieties.The Seeds of Renewal Project: 2013 Harvest poster (Wiseman, 2013), illustrates Abenaki corn, beans, squash, pumpkin, and sunflower varieties that have been restored to active cultivation by Vermont Abenaki people. Collectively, these traditional crops, together with Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes) and tobacco, are now known as the Abenaki “Seven Sisters.”

Seeds of Renewal Project poster
Seeds of Renewal Project: 2013 Harvest [Poster] (Wiseman, 20

For More Information

Bumstead, M. P. (1980). VT-CH-94 Vermont’s earliest known agricultural experiment station. Man in the Northeast, 19, 73–82. [hard to find article can also be found at https://13c4.wordpress.com/2006/01/09/vt-ch-94-vermonts-earliest-known-agricultural-experiment-station/]

Haviland, William A. and Marjory W. Power. (1994)The Original Vermonters: Native Inhabitants, Past and Present. (Revised and Expanded Edition). University Press of New England. 

Wiseman, F. M. (2001) The Voice of the Dawn: An Autohistory of the Abenaki Nation. University Press of New England.

Wiseman, F. M. (2006) Reclaiming the Ancestors: Decolonizing a Taken Prehistory of the Far Northeast. University Press of New England.

Wiseman, F. M. (2018). Seven sisters: Ancient seeds and food systems of the Wabanaki people and the Chesapeake Bay region. Earth Haven Learning Centre Incorporated.

The above information comes from the “Deep Roots, Strong Branches” traveling exhibition, Vermont Abenaki Artists Association, curated by Vera Longtoe Sheehan (2025e). Printed with permission of the author. Share as much or as little with your students as needed to successfully complete the curriculum activities.

©2025. Vera Longtoe Sheehan. All Rights Reserved.